I’m feeling pretty proud that I am on track to meet my goal of designing and knitting a pair of mittens every month this year. Today, I present to you the March Newgrange Mittens.
I wanted to do something with an Irish twist to it for March because of St. Patrick’s Day. Matt and I spend two weeks driving around Ireland last spring. One of our favorite parts of the trip was visiting the the prehistoric monuments, tombs and stone circles scattered all over the island. Something about these places in the middle of quiet farmer’s fields and on top of windy, rainy bluffs was so powerful.
One of the most striking ones to visit is Newgrange at Brú na Bóinne, a monument dating from 3200 BC (That is 500 years older than the pyramids folks!). No one is exactly sure what Newgrange was used for, but a roofbox on the monument is aligned so that at sunrise on the Winter Solstice the passage in and main chamber are lit up for 17 minutes.
Inside and out, Newgrange is decorated with intricate rock carvings, mainly spirals (often tri-spirals), diamonds in a scale-like pattern and ovals with dots in them. I took those designs and turned them into a mitten pattern that is beautiful, intricate, and most of all reminds me of a very powerful part of Ireland.
March Newgrange Mittens
- Sock or fingering weight yarn in two colors, about 175 – 200 yards of each
- Four size 0 double-pointed needles or size needed to get gauge
- Stitch markers
- Scrap yarn or stitch holder
- Tapestry needle
Gauge: 10 stitches and 12 rows per inch
Size: Women’s Medium (7.5 inches wide)
- knit and purl in the round on double pointed needles
- work basic increases and decreases, kfb, k2tog, ssk
- work make one left and right increases
- do two color stranded colorwork
- read a colorwork chart
- seam using kitchener stitch
- picking up stitches
- K – knit
- P – purl
- Kfb – knit into the same stitch through the front and then through the back increasing 1 stitch
- M1l – make one stitch left
- M1r – make one stitch right
- Ssk – slip two stitches and then knit them together decreasing 1 stitch
- K2tog – knit two stitches together decreasing 1 stitch
Follow this written pattern for the shaping of the mittens and the chart for the colorwork.
This mitten has a short 2” cuff. If you would like it longer do more than six rows of ribbing at the beginning.
With main color, cast on 72 stitches. Divide between 3 needles. Join together to knit in the round being careful not to twist stitches. Place a stitch marker between the last and first stitch to mark rows.
Row 1 – 6: (k1,p1) until end of row
Row 7 – 25: k (You will bring in the second color on row 8 as shown on the chart)
Row 26: k23, kfb, k23, kfb, k23, kfb (75 stitches)
Row 27: k37, m1l, k1, m1r, k37 (77 stitches) You may find it easier to keep track of where the thumb stitches are if you place a stitch marker before the m1l and after the m1r.
Row 28: k
Row 29: k37, m1l, k3, m1r, k37 (79 stitches)
Row 30: k
Row 31: k37, m1l, k5, m1r, k37 (81 stitches)
Row 32: k
Row 33: k37, m1l, k7, m1r, k37 (83 stitches)
Row 34: k
Row 35: k37, m1l, k9, m1r, k37 (85 stitches)
Row 36: k
Row 37: k37, m1l, k11, m1r, k37 (87 stitches)
Row 38: k
Row 39: k37, m1l, k13, m1r, k37 (89 stitches)
Row 40: k
Row 41: k37, m1l, k15, m1r, k37 (91 stitches)
Row 42: k
Row 43: k37, m1l, k17, m1r, k37 (93 stitches)
Row 44: k
Row 45: k37, m1l, k19, m1r, k37 (95 stitches)
Row 46: k
Row 47: k37, m1l, k21, m1r, k37 (97 stitches)
Row 48: k
Row 49: k37, m1l, k23, m1r, k37 (99 stitches)
Row 50: k
Row 51: k37, m1l, k25, m1r, k37 (101 stitches)
Row 52: k
Row 53: k37, m1l, k27, m1r, k37 (103 stitches)
Row 54 – 56: k
Row 57: k37, put the next 29 stitches on a piece of scrap yarn or a stitch holder, k37 (74 stitches on the needles, 29 on the stitch holder)
Finish the hand:
Row 58 – 91: k
Row 92: ssk, k33, k2tog, ssk, k33, k2tog (70 stitches)
Row 93: k
Row 94: ssk, k31, k2tog, ssk, k31, k2tog (66 stitches)
Row 95: k
Row 96: ssk, k29, k2tog, ssk, k29, k2tog (62 stitches)
Row 97: k
Row 98: ssk, k27, k2tog, ssk, k27, k2tog (58 stitches)
Row 99: ssk, k25, k2tog, ssk, k25, k2tog (54 stitches)
Row 100: ssk, k23, k2tog, ssk, k23, k2tog (50 stitches)
Row 101: ssk, k21, k2tog, ssk, k21, k2tog (46 stitches)
Row 102: ssk, k19, k2tog, ssk, k19, k2tog (42 stitches)
Row 103: ssk, k17, k2tog, ssk, k17, k2tog (38 stitches)
Row 104: ssk, k15, k2tog, ssk, k15, k2tog (34 stitches)
Row 105: ssk, k13, k2tog, ssk, k13, k2tog (30 stitches)
Row 106: ssk, k11, k2tog, ssk, k11, k2tog (26 stitches)
Row 107: ssk, k9, k2tog, ssk, k9, k2tog (22 stitches)
Row 108: ssk, k7, k2tog, ssk, k7, k2tog (18 stitches)
Cut yarn leaving about a 10” tail. Seam the top using kitchener stitch.
Put the 29 stitches on the stitch holder on 3 needles. Pick up and knit 2 stitches from the hand of mitten where it meets the thumb (the gap). Place a stitch marker after these two stitches to mark your rounds. You will have 31 stitches on the needles. Start knitting in the round with the first stitch after the stitch marker.
Row 57: k29, k2tog (30 stitches)
Row 50 – 74: k
Row 75: ssk, k11, k2tog, ssk, k11, k2tog (26 stitches)
Row 76: k
Row 77: ssk, k9, k2tog, ssk, k9, k2tog (22 stitches)
Row 78: ssk, k7, k2tog, ssk, k7, k2tog (18 stitches)
Row 79: ssk, k5, k2tog, ssk, k5, k2tog (14 stitches)
Row 80: ssk, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, k2tog (10 stitches)
Row 81: ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog (6 stitches)
Cut the yarn leaving about a 6” tail. Seam the top using kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends.
Copyright 2014 Kathy Lewinski JustCraftyEnough.com
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© 2005 – 2014 Kathy Lewinski & Susan Cornish