It’s National Knit Mitten Month, so let’s celebrate with a new mitten pattern…
After I made my flying pig mittens, my friend Elle of Elle’s New England Kitchen and I were discussing finding mittens that fit. My complaint was long hands, her’s was just the opposite, small hands. So, I offered to design and knit her a pair made just her size. When we discussed pattern ideas one thing jumped out at both of us right away, her adorable Corgis.
Corgi’s have such a distinctive shape with their broad chests, short legs and long ears, they make for a great silhouette. Elle gave a few more ideas on what she’d like in a mitten and some careful measurements of her hand. Here’s what we came up with…
I think they are seriously cute and I really hope she loves them.
Elle’s Corgi Mittens
I know corgis are a pretty specific pattern, but you could easy adapt this pattern to add a silhouette of your own dog. ***You can now get this pattern with charts for a dachshund, pug, beagle, labrador or yorkshire terrier on this post!***
This pattern is made to fit a hand that is about 6 1/2 inches around and 6 3/4 stitches long (from the wrist to the tip of the middle finger). If you want to make a bigger size the easiest way is to knit it in a larger gauge.
- Two balls sock weight yarn (about 250 yards each, though you’ll use about half for the white), one ball in each color
- Four size 1 double-pointed needles (or size needed to get gauge)
- Three stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap yarn
Gauge: 9 stitches and 11 rows per inch
- K = knit
- P = purl
- Kfb = knit twice into the same stitch, once into the front and once into the back increasing one stitch
- K2tog = knit 2 stitches together, decreasing one stitch.
- Ssk = slip two stitches as if to knit, return them to the left needle and knit them together, decreasing one stitch.
- M1r = Pick up the yarn between the needles with the left needle from back to front. Knit through the front of the loop you created. Increases one stitch.
- M1l = Pick up the yarn between the needles with the left needle from front to back. Knit through the back of the loop you created. Increases one stitch.
- Sl = Slip maker
With main color cast on 65 stitches. Divide between three needles. Join to knit in the round. Place a stitch marker between the first and last stitch to mark rounds.
Row 1: purl
Row 2: knit
Row 3: purl
Row 4 -7: knit
Row 8 -12: knit following cuff chart
Row 13 – 14: knit in main color
Row 15: k31, kfb, k33 (66 stitches)
Row 16 – 43 (or to desired length): (k3, p3), continue until end of row
Row 1: k21, kfb, k21, kfb, k21, kfb (69 stitches)
Row 2: k34, place marker, m1r, k1, m1l, place marker, k34 (71 stitches)
Row 3: (Start following color pattern on chart) k
Row 4: k34, sm, m1r, k3, m1l, sm, k34 (73 stitches)
Row 5: k
Row 6: k34, sm, m1r, k5 m1l, sm, k34 (75 stitches)
Row 7: k
Row 8: k34, sm, m1r, k7, m1l, sm, k34 (77 stitches)
Row 9: k
Row 10: k34, sm, m1r, k9, m1l, sm, k34 (79 stitches)
Row 11: k
Row 12: k34, sm, m1r, k11, m1l, sm, k34 (81 stitches)
Row 13: k
Row 14: k34, sm, m1r, k13, m1l, sm, k34 (83 stitches)
Row 15: k
Row 16: k34, sm, m1r, k15, m1l, sm, k34 (85 stitches)
Row 17: k
Row 18: k34, sm, m1r, k17, m1l, sm, k34 (87 stitches)
Row 19: k
Row 20: k34, sm, m1r, k19, m1l, sm, k34 (89 stitches)
Row 21: k
Row 22: k
Row 23: k34, sm, m1r, k21, m1l, sm, k34 (91 stitches)
Row 24 – 27: knit
Row 28: k34, put the 23 stitches between the markers on a scrap piece of yarn (or stitch holder), cast on one stitch, k34 (69 stitches on the needles, 23 on the scrap yarn)
Row 29: k34, k2tog, k33 (68 stitches)
Row 30 – 57: k
Row 58: ssk, k30, k2tog, ssk, k30, k2tog (64 stitches)
Row 59: ssk, k28, k2tog, ssk, k28, k2tog (60 stitches)
Row 60: ssk, k26, k2tog, ssk, k26, k2tog (56 stitches)
Row 61: ssk, k24, k2tog, ssk, k24, k2tog (52 stitches)
Row 62: ssk, k22, k2tog, ssk, k22, k2tog (48 stitches)
Row 63: ssk, k20, k2tog, ssk, k20, k2tog (44 stitches)
Row 64: ssk, k18, k2tog, ssk, k18, k2tog (40 stitches)
Row 65: ssk, k16, k2tog, ssk, k16, k2tog (36 stitches)
Row 66: ssk, k14, k2tog, ssk, k14, k2tog (32 stitches)
Row 67: ssk, k12, k2tog, ssk, k12, k2tog (28 stitches)
Row 68: ssk, k10, k2tog, ssk, k10, k2tog (24 stitches)
Row 69: ssk, k8, k2tog, ssk, k8, k2tog (20 stitches)
Row 70: ssk, k6, k2tog, ssk, k6, k2tog (16 stitches)
Row 71: ssk, k4, k2tog, ssk, k4, k2tog (12 stitches)
Row 72: ssk, k2, k2tog, ssk, k2, k2tog (8 stitches)
Row 73: ssk, k2tog, ssk, k2tog (4 stitches)
Cut the yarn leaving about a 6-inch tail. Put the tail on a tapestry needle and weave through the four stitches on the needles. Remove the needles and pull tight. Put the tail inside the mitten.
Put the stitches on the scrap yarn on three needles. Pick up two stitches from the hand of the mitten. Place a stitch marker between the picked up stitches to mark the end of the round. (25 stitches)
Row 1: (Continue following thumb chart) k2tog, k21, k2tog (23 stitches)
Row 2 – 22: k
Row 23: k2tog(6x), k, k2tog(5x) (12 stitches)
Row 24: k
Row 25: k2tog(6x) (6 stitches)
Row 26: k2tog(3x) (3 stitches)
Cut the yarn leaving about a 6-inch tail. Put the tail on a tapestry needle and weave through the three stitches on the needles. Remove the needles and pull tight. Put the tail inside the mitten.
Weave in all ends.
This pattern has not been test knit, so please let me know if you find any errors in this pattern.
Copyright 2013 Kathy Lewinski
Do not sell, duplicate for distribution, repost or teach this pattern without permission.
© 2005 – 2013 Kathy Lewinski & Susan Cornish